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Baghdad — Thaura Will Blow

I went back to Thaura, formerly Saddam City, the place where millions of poor Shi’ites live in Baghdad, where all the looted stuff gets sold.  I wanted to see where the poorest people live and we went out in search [...]

Baghdad — Horrible Hospitals, Jews, Hot Days, Angry Shi’ites

I complain about how hard it is to work and then realize how lucky I am to be here. And see some Hebrew and the most depressing hospital. One quick note.  I love getting emails about the site, but I [...]

Baghdad – Happy to be back, hating the Americans

I gleefully return to Baghdad, drink too much, and become depressed about the American overseers of this country. I’ve been back in Baghdad a few days but have been running around so much and, really, socializing too much, and I’ve just [...]

Amman – Sleeping and luxuriating

I finally make it out of Baghdad and enjoy deluxe accomodations and comfy sheets. I’m in my five-star hotel in Amman right now, luxuriating in air conditioning, minibar, room service, and I’m watching Seinfeld on TV (even though it’s the [...]

Baghdad – Politics and Guns

Traveling around Baghdad talking to it’s future leaders makes me feel kind of sick. I spent the day going around to the different political parties, trying to figure out what their plans are for the future of Iraq’s economy.  I [...]

Baghdad – Lovely dinner, gunfire

How to live a good life on the road. I took the day off and barely left my hotel.  It was a much-needed rest.  My translator and driver came by at 2 and we went to lunch.  At lunch my [...]

Baghdad – Sex and Politics

I eat food, realize I’m a colonialist and learn what sex means to iraqis. I feel like I don’t have a lot to write today.  I’m particularly exhausted.  I had a very early briefing from the US Treasury department people [...]

Baghdad – Oil and Fire

Visiting an oil refinery, getting a sense of the oil industry–surprisingly strong–and visiting a fire at a gas station. I had the best reporting day I’ve had in a while.  I started as I always do at this house where [...]