Amman – A slow day and a hot steam
Taking it easy in Amman. I’m sitting in a crappy, dirty internet cafe across the street from the big Safeway. This place smells like stale smoke, the keys are sticky, the computer is deathly slow. What’s funny is this is [...]
Amman – The Destruction of Jordan
I hear a terrifying view of what might happen in the Arab-Israeli conflict that could destroy Jordan. Yesterday, after leaving the Iraqi guy’s internet cafe, I went to interview this powerful, wealthy man. He used to be the prime minister, [...]
Amman – The Love and Fear and Hate of Kings and McDonald’s
I wrestle with the confusing contradictions of Jordan, its King and its fastfood restaurants. Last night I went out with a group of reporters, most of whom have spent a lot of time in war zones. We ate in the [...]
Amman – Iraqis Candid and not so Candid
I spent the day talking with angry Iraqis and angry Jordanians in Amman. I am so incredibly tired. I’m past tired on to some loggy feeling, like my head is in soup. I got four hours’ sleep last night, three [...]
Amman and Surroundings
My first day of reporting includes a surprisingly pleasant trip to the Iraqi embassy and a daring escape from Jordanian intelligence in a Palestinian refugee camp. Last night I went to the Hotel Intercontinental where, I was told, all the [...]
Royal Jordanian Flight to Amman
A long, fascinating, annoying flight from JFK to Amman There is something shockingly casual about flying Royal Jordanian to the Middle East. They told me to arrive at least four hours early because the security was so intense. I’m used [...]